Tahiti?? Stone Island Mazatlán México

Yesterday we visited Stone Island, actually a peninsula on the southern tip of the historic district. After another maddening search for details for the correct bus to get to the ferry, we found the spot where we needed to take a small boat across a ten-minute stretch of water. The narrow strip of sand and palm trees is a favorite spot of locals, expats, and tourists alike. For anyone familiar with Stone Island, perhaps my impression may be a bit far-fetched, but the thought of Paul Gauguin, Post-Impressionist artist, came immediately to my mind. Restaurants on the sand stretched for blocks, all constructed of thatched roof buildings, open to the air. But along the entire strip of land, tall palm trees offered a backdrop. And, that's what made me think of Gauguin. Despite the tourist aspect, it's a fun place to go for the day.

Cruise ships dock on Wednesdays and Thursdays so the population of Mazatlán temporarily increases. Several people with whom we spoke from the ships were there for the day, which seemed to me to be a better use of their time than cruising the gift shops. I'm not a fan of cruise ships because of their environmental damage, but when one sees the reality of local economy, it's somewhat understandable. Life offers complex decisions.

Today we're going to see if we an obtain tickets to a musical at the local teatro, which is a restored European building in Plaza Machado, my favorite place here. There is a music school nearby, and thegifted and talented students of music and dance put on many performances in this small gem. Picture it: a proscenium stage, horseshoe shaped configuration, seats covered in red velvet and three tiers of more seats above the main floor. It's a delightful visual feast.

Transportation Mazatlán and Concordia México

The transportation system in México is excellent, and taking buses is my favorite way to move around the city and surrounding countryside. Not many are in pristine condition, and some are in pretty tough shape, but it's more interesting by far than taking a cab or pulmonia, an open air, golf cart-type conveyance. Drivers here do not seem to have the same Kamikaze Pilot mentality when driving so it's a bit tamer riding in Mazatlán buses than in some other cities. Many have a cross or crucifix dangling in the front window, and many have named their bus. Information that I get from other people here may or may not be correct, and it's impossible for me to check for accuracy but it makes for interesting stories. I've been told that many individual buses are purchased as a business by the drivers which explains the individualized decor and names.

Yesterday we went to the central bus station where both elite and regular buses board passengers going to various Méxican cities and villages. Finding our way there was a contest in itself, but we are getting very good at figuring out the bus system, with some hilarious mishaps along the way. After finding the right terminal building for the small town of Concordia, about 40 kilometers from here, we boarded and watched the driver and other passengers. One pays the fare on the bus with this particular system, a less-fancy bus than the other larger Greyhound types. The drivers stopped at almost every corner, or so it seemed, boarding new passengers. Occasionally vendors got on, selling candy which they placed in laps and then returned for payment. We and many others just gave them back. Other vendors selling roast corn, sweet rolls and lottery tickets boarded, sold their wares, and then debarked several blocks beyond where they first got on. It took us 45 minutes just to get out of the city. Absolutely no other gringos on the bus. Where we noticed?? Women with children without fail were helped by other passengers, total strangers, who held the children or helped the family get settled.

The colonial town of Concordia was beastly hot and many residents walked around carrying black umbrellas to ward off the sun's rays. The church in the Plaza, reportedly to be one of the oldest in the country. unfortunately was locked. We didn't stay long and returned along the same route. The landscape is dry and dusty during this season, but there were patches of land that looked like orchards, green havens among the yellow, dry soil. Cacti sprouted from the hills along the highway. The trip takes about an hour and a half each way and costs the princely sum of $2.00.

After several more mishaps on the city buses, created by language difficulties, we arrived in the Zona Dorada and had a great meal of a rack of ribs. We have been eating almost all Méxican food, but this was impossible to resist and the food was excellent.

I wonder what today will bring?!

The "real México" Juarez Sunday Market

Permission given to use these photos which were taken by Eliot Deutsch, www.lilaw.info

Catherine Watson, former editor of the Travel Section of the Minneapolis Star Tribune, has written in her new book that travelers should not overplan but "go with the flow," so to speak. Catherine is not only a good writer but also a wise person.

Yesterday morning Jaime and I hopped on a bus, rode it to the end of the line, and arrived at "the real México." Only on Sundays this particular neighborhood holds an outdoor mercado. The sights and sounds were fantastic. Other than a few streets left open and clear for buses and traffic, all the others were closed and filled from one side to the other with vendors. The regular shops were open, doing a brisk business as well. With nary a tourist in sight we wended our way from one stall or open area to another. The red tomatoes look and taste like real tomatoes instead of the hot house brand available in the USA. A pick-up truck parked at the curb was piled high with green peppers, another with round, ripe melons. Vegetables and fruit --block after block. Old and new clothes, flea-market style, lay on tarps along the sidewalk, and hung on make-shift rods. Old and new merchandise of many different categories were available for purchase. Huge vats and barrels of shrimp and squid rested side by side, along with rows and rows of fish of all varieties. Our prize was a kilo of shrimp, heads included, which were happily devoured for our evening meal.

Returning to our condo, we rode a bus that led from one spectrum of society to the other. The passengers reflected the neighborhoods--all this during a distance that took about 40 minutes. Can't wait to go back next Sunday!

Earlier in the week we met another Norte Americano on the bus who started the conversation by remarking on my Green Bay Packer hat. Turns out that he is one of our "neighbors" and is vacationing in a nearby location that is a mixture of tourists, expats, and Mexicans. What a find he has been. A former Peace Corp worker, he speaks very good Spanish, and has given us a tour of his rented house as well as many other tips. Haven't met a Peace Corp worker that I haven't liked, especially those who were in it during the 60s and 70s.

Time to walk the beach again!

Gala Musical at the Orfanatorio de Mazatlán

The Orfanatorio de Mazatlán
Tonight was magical! We went to a concert to benefit the Orfanatorio de Mazatlán that was held in the courtyard of the orphanage. Apparently it is an annual event, which is extremely well-attended by Mexicans and gringos alike. The program was top drawer with outstanding talent: a youth orchestra, well-known musicians, and a programa that was varied and extensive, including excerpts from Carmen, Romeo and Juliet, the Barber of Seville, Traviata, Boheme, Tales of Hoffman and others with outstanding vocalists. We sat front row center, and I felt that I have never before been that close to so much talent!

During the very brief intermissions, dozens of trays of tapas were passed among us, and beverages and wine were available, supplied by sponsoring businesses. One major bank contributed $150,000 pesos (equivalent to $15,000 USD) to the orphanage which I suspect is not a common gesture. Much needed and appreciated. Some of the children were brought out along with the artists at the finale with bouquets for the musicians and vocalists.

It is often surprising to open a door to a building in a nondescript neighborhood to discover an amazing courtyard and interior. The orphanage's courtyard is well-maintained, altho somewhat austere. It appears that the building must have been owned by an affluent family in times past. When going to the baño I glanced through a doorway and paused when I saw a long rectangular room with approximately 20 cots on both sides lined against the outside walls with a few cribs in the center of the room. All of the cots had the same print bedspread on each one, but there were different stuffed toys on some beds. Made my heart quicken when I saw it.

Seated next to me during the performance was an elegant older woman who gave me some history. There are several orphanages here: two funded by the Catholics and another by the Salvation Army, but this orphanage struggles for money. Apparently many expats get involved in all kinds of service organizations, but not enough at this particular orphanage. Some of the children are true orphans, many abandoned, but some are also placed there by parents who are unable to care for them. The sorry state of human history marches on.

I am grateful to have had the chance to hear this outstanding concert, and to learn more of this region's history.

The Beach Cerritos Beach Mazatlán México

A group of about 100 middle and high school students with their adult keepers are vacationing for a week somewhere just north of us. Yesterday I "spoke" with two of the girls while the entire group was walking the beach early in the morning. It was great to see them and their youthful energy as a change from the older-age people who are also on the beach. Occasionally I'll see a young family, but that's normally in the afternoon. Yesterday morning, however, I saw two young fathers with infants in baby-pacs while the mothers I assume were still sleeping. Or tending to other children.

Seashells are abundant here, but there's not much variety. It's later now than when I usually stroll the shore, but I need to see what the sea has offered from last night, so off I go. Perhaps I'll see the two fishermen that were there yesterday. They were not a gift from the sea, but interesting to watch as they repeatedly cast their lines, over and over again.

Stereotypes México

Some stereotypes are based on faulty information or downright bigotry. And, then there are some stereotypes that are uncomfortably close to reality. Is there any cultural group that plays music louder than Mexicans? Since we have not been here during fiestas we haven't been treated to the sights and sounds reported to us by other gringos, but we have had a small sample here and there. Doesn't bother me, but it seems to be a trait that could fall into the sterotype category. Then there is the Ugly American, loud and obnoxious or arrogant and supercilious on foreign soil. We were treated to that yesterday on a local bus. Observing local behavior and judging whether or not we can classify it, or whether or not we really should bother with making judgments perhaps is only idle curiosity on my part rather than an intellectual exercise.

Jaime is having a difficult time relaxing and doing nothing. Although time is passing rapidly and we haven't been exactly standing still, he needs to do more than walk on the beach and play the role of tourist. We might actually do some volunteering here if we can find the right group.

While Jaime sleeps, I'm going to don some clothes and walk on the beach since no-one else is out and about yet. Suits me fine!

Some Surprises Mazatlán México

Monday night

The weather is a bit cooler than I had thought it would be and I did not bring the right clothes, which has always been tricky for me. I sure could use a nice pair of jeans and a light sweatshirt tonight as it's a bit chilly.

I am drawn to El Centro so we went there again today. I was invited to a luncheon held each Monday by a group of women, but declined and will go later since I did not want to abandon Jaime and our plans for the day. Amazing how quickly the hours flash by. We found the library with English books and checked out a few, including Annie Proulx's Close Range: Wyoming Stories. I had already read "Brokeback Mountain" but not the others. She is a powerful writer!

We found Mary's Restaurant, owned by a young female entrepreneur from St. Paul, Mn who opened a restaurant with typical Norte Americano food: hamburgers, french fries--the works. Not for us, but our grandson hasn't yet developed a taste for Mexican food so Mary's occasionally will offer some comfort food for him while we are here. Mary graduated from Derham Hall in 1986, the last graduating class from the all-girls' school before the merger with Cretin, the all-boys' school. Later while at the Univ. of Mn. she met a young Mexican who was there on a medical fellowship, and the inevitable happened. She has now lived here for 10 years, has two boys, and owns two small restaurants, both located in Zona Dorada. Brilliant move on her part.

Yesterday (Sunday) we went to a non-denominational church called the Vineyard. There are lots of dedicated expats in this city who support the work of the church. Interesting service; I thought it would be more like the Unitarians, but it isn't, and it is decidedly Christian. I was a bit uncomfortable, but I appreciate the outreach and programs provided by the regular churchgoers. I signed up our entire family to participate for one day in a program whereby volunteers make sandwiches and then take them to the dump where the food is distributed to Mexicans. I've seen pictures of this activity, and the children there seem to be enjoying the visitors. I felt that our grandkids might learn something without any comments or lectures from us. What I really would like to do is help teach the children English, which I would do if we would be here for a longer period of time.

My Spanish language study has been non-existent, but I have new resolve. I'll start mañana.

Another Day Mazatlán México

Good morning~The moon has an aura that I have not seen before. It is encircled by a field of white edged with a light shade of pink, bordering on red. I'll have to surf the web for an explanation.

Yesterday friends from Minnesota gave us a small insiders tour of Zona Dorada and our own neighborhood that gave us a few tips which will enable us to enjoy Mazatlan even more than we now do. The process of getting groceries and hauling them back here is becoming increasingly unpleasant, however.

Today we're going to go to a non-denominational church called the Vineyard. I discovered years ago while travelling that attending a local church reveals a good deal about the culture. The English service is about one hour but the Spanish service is over two hours. Which one to attend is no contest! Next week I'd like to go to El Centro to attend mass at the Cathedral to see how it differs.

We drove around a neighborhood called El Cid, which is 80% Mexican. It's probably one of the most, if not THE most exclusive neighborhood. Wow! The homes are spectacular with interesting architecture, many with blindingly white exteriors. One home had a Hummer and "smart car" parked in the open garage. If I ever win the lottery, I'll return and have an architect named Osuna do my home. Looks like a very talented man.

Early morning musings are now commonplace since I am so relaxed. Is this what life is all about:?

Marching

At dawn I heard among bird calls

the billions of marching feet in the churn

and squeak of gravel, even tiny feet

still wet from the mother's amniotic fluid,

and very old halting feet, the feet

of the very light and very heavy, all marching

but not together, criss-crossing at every angle

with sincere attempts not to touch, not to bum

into each other, walking in the doors of houses

and out the back door forty years later, finally

knowing that time collapses on a single

plateau where they were all their lives,

knowing that time stops when the heart stops

as they walk off the earth into the night air.

"Marching," from Jim Harrison's "Saving Daylight" (2006)

A need for coffee, such as it is, calls. 'Til later.

Plus or Minus? Mazatlán México

A bright full moon lies over my right shoulder as I'm typing this. The surf seems to be louder this early morning, and the moon illuminates the water to make the surroundings much brighter than the previous mornings--or so it seems.

During the 80s when I did a fair amount of travelling, the International Tribune was my main source of information, and, because I am a news-junkie, finding a copy was critical to my mood. In the 90s the newspaper was enhanced (for me) by CNN--a quick fix. Now I need neither since I travel with a laptop. I still take a small purse-size journal with me to record impressions, but I use it infrequently now. Daily I am irresistibly drawn to the computer to stay in touch with family and friends, read local and national newspapers, and now blog. But, is this a plus or a minus? A question that needs some reflection. Any opinions out there??

Yesterday we bused to El Centro which is far more "Mexican" than where we are staying, which incidentally is very serene and very quiet. When our grandkids arrive, I do believe that they will change the environment!! I LOVE the mercado with all its stalls and wares. I prefer shopping there, but it takes an act of sheer determination to bus, transfer and bus again in order to get there. For pleasure and the ambience , that's fine, but to haul groceries requires more effort.

As I suspected, the stalls for the Art Fair in the Plazuela Machado were just being set up so the activity was not conducive for browsing. Instead we visited a woman we had met last October. She has an interesting history, not all of which I know yet. She has spent years teaching English as a second language all over the world, the most recently in China. She bought a condo which is still under construction right on the malecon, a great location. Prices here in Mazatlan, incidentally, are rising astronomically. Jaime and I decided (he more than I) to rent rather than buy to avoid home ownership responsibilities and woes. Plus then we're not tied down to one city and one location. After greeting Teri, our new friend, we went to Cannucks where expats from North America and Canada meet regularly--an interesting group of people. Everyone has a story to tell. We left early because the buses stop running early in the evening to our place because of the distance. Rather than walk or taxi, we decided that going back to the condo was prudent. No regrets, despite that it was St. Patrick's Day. Another question: are we just growing "older" (and wiser or duller) or just more serene and content with our quiet vacation spot?

I have neglected any Spanish study; taking my books with me and a resolve to spend an hour a day to build vocabulary and grammar has been ignored. But, because I am missing an entire unit in my Spanish class, I'd better mend my ways. Yesterday I managed to explain the meaning of St. Patrick's Day to a curious waiter at Cannucks. Between his fractured English and my equally fractured Spanish, we communicated beautifully. It has stimulated me to learn more, tho! I'm even considering buying Spanish newspapers and listening to Spanish TV programs, yet either might tax my brain too much!

Taking an early morning walk on the beach with Jaime is a far-fetched dream because he prefers to dream in his trundle bed; I guess I'll have to go alone, which I fully intend to do--right now, with the bright moon as my sole companion. One of the tenants has a dog that I've seen frolic on the beach; perhaps I can borrow him as a good companion, especially since I miss Maggi, our dog.

¡Adios amigos!

This n' That Mazatlán México

Dedicated to Jaime who is still sleeping. The dawn of another day does not have the same effect on him as it does on me!

Aubade
By William Shakespeare1564-1616

HARK! hark! the lark at heaven's gate sings,

And Phoebus 'gins arise,

His steeds to water at those springs

On chaliced flowers that lies;

And winking Mary-buds begin

To ope their golden eyes:

With everything that pretty bin,

My lady sweet, arise!

Arise, arise!

I think that getting up before dawn to watch the sunrise is going to become a regular pleasure while we are here. I just watched an amber globe slowly emerge from behind the mountains with thin wisps of clouds drifting across its face.

For about five minutes after looking away, a small dot (on my retina?) partially blocked my vision, which was a bit scary but it's gone now. It reinforced my thought earlier this morning as I listened to the surf: nature is strong, hypnotically beautiful yet potentially dangerous in its force. If I can get Jaime up earlier tomorrow, I'd like to walk the beach before there are any other footprints on the sand.

Because the light is so bright I can't type on the balcony during the day. But womankind cannot be deterred! Yesterday I placed a huge beach towel over my head and the monitor to send and receive messages. I looked a bit strange, but it worked!

Yesterday was busy and exhausting. The Mexican people are unfailingly friendly and helpful. This has been my impression over the years and remains true whereever I travel. It more than compensates for the tiny irritations we Norte Americanos sometimes feel at cultural differences. We really are an impatient society!

Bus service is excellent, all over Mexico. Without any complications, except expenditure of time (see, we are an impatient lot!) we navigated the city for pesos, breakfast, and shopping. I brought two shopping bags with me for that express purpose but filling the larder required more. Struggling to board a bus with those plus four plastic bags which cut into one's hands, filled with groceries brought smiles to many faces. To complete the picture, all we needed was a chicken crate as well. When we unloaded and stowed the groceries away in the refrigerator and cupboards, it seemed like such a puny amount. I can't help but groan when I consider how many such trips we will continue to make during our stay. We are far enough out of the city so that there are no grocery stores close by.

Today the fourth annual Book and Arts Fair will fill the Plazuela Machado. It's my favorite location in El Centro and I plan to stay in the city most of the day. I'll get to practice my fractured Spanish as I cruise the market and streets. On Friday nights tables are set up in the Plaza and children of all ages engage in art projects. The square is surrounded by restaurants and muscians so we'll stay a long while.

El menú de libros y autores que año recalan a la Plazuela Machado para conversar con los lectures mazatlecos, puede competir casi con cualquier feria del libro en nuestro continente y este año no será la excepción. Impressed?! Actually I cheated and copied it from the newspaper.

Enough for this morning. Ta! Ta!

Dawn! A Perfect Moment! Mazatlán México

It's better than I expected! Our kitchen is at the east end of the condo, and while I sit on the balcony on the west end, listening and watching the waves, I am able also to watch the sunrise through the large kitchen window. Foliage is primarily palm trees with low-lying mountains behind them, covered in green. A flock of birds barely skimming the surface of the water just crossed my vision. The sky is streaked with rose, pale blue, and mauve. I could live here!

I find it interesting that despite all the travelling I've done, I am still thrilled and excited about new places to see or old places to visit. I can even get excited about a trip to the North Shore, Stillwater, or a drive down the Mississippi on the Wisconsin side. Minneapolis even has its appeal! My father was correct: I do, indeed, have gypsy feet. I guess it's a travel gene.

I got little sleep last nite: late to bed and early to rise. Jaime is still sleeping. Without food in the house, we need to find a bank and pesos before we hit a restaurant and the grocery store. Although I really like El Centro, the remoteness, peace and quiet of this area has its own appeal.

Paradise!!-Mazatlán México

Paradise is an apt name for this location. After an uneventful flight with several outstanding flight attendants (no kidding) on Sun Country Airlines, we landed at Mazatlán's 20th Century-style airport (takes me back many years), was off the jet, passed through immigration, collected our luggage, and was driving toward town--all in 35 minutes.

Right now I'm sitting on our fifth floor balcony, listening to the waves pounding on the shore in front of the condo. Beyond the sound is a backdrop of total inky blackness. No stars to be seen. Our bedroom is off the balcony and it will be sweet, going to sleep with the sound of the surf below us.

We are in a secluded area about 40 minutes from El Centro. Although I love the downtown area because of its energy and vitality, the beaches and relative quiet here is going to be a plus.

Jaime is slowly unwinding, despite mistakenly thinking that I had brought the coffee. Nope! After the initial shock wore off, he stopped hyperventilating and accepted the fact that he'd have to do without 'til we wind our way to the grocers tomorrow morning. That, too, will be an adventure. First the bank and then food! I actually enjoy riding Mexican buses. Good way to watch the people, rather than just the tourists. Tomorrow I need to start reviewing my Spanish textbook. Speaking it (if I could) is a lot more fun than studying it!

Off to my trundle bed!

A White Send-Off!-St Paul MN USA

Awoke this morning to a true "winter wonderland"--everything is covered with many inches of snow, streets are clogged, and schools are closed. Weather in Mn has been unseasonably free from blizzards and warmer than it should be so this snowfall makes it seem as though we are really "getting away from it all." By Wednesday when we are scheduled to fly away, it should be plowed or melted, and we'll take-off with smiles on our faces. Perfect timing!

Getting Started!-St Paul, MN USA

Getting started is not that easy when I should be packing for our vacation in Mexico. Blogs are supposed to be easy; why, then, is it difficult for me to design this one? Perhaps it's because I am about three days behind schedule, and instead of moving along with dispatch, I am blogging. Not really blogging---yet, but trying to start it.

Mi esposo Jaime y yo