kate-travels

Unlikely Travelers

2006-08-21T14:07:00.000-06:00

Travelers down old Highway 61 in Duluth, Minnesota may be startled by these unusual animals. Note: "Take One"-- just a brochure with information from the artist, if anyone is interested in this kind of lawn decoration. Local, national, or international treasures await the observant traveler!

Duluth Again!

2006-08-20T17:15:00.000-06:00

We took the grandkids to Duluth for the week-end and made our usual visit to Canal Park after getting a schedule of the ships' arrivals and departures from the daily posted Shipping News. For more information about the Maritime Museum in Duluth operated by the US Army Corp of Engineers, visit my other blog, kate-musings.

Mazatlán, México

2006-08-14T20:15:00.000-06:00

Very excited! Just rented a house in Mazatlán, México for 3 months in 2007. I'll be able to get away from a Minnnesota winter for awhile. It'll be so much fun!

Does Minneapolis Count?

2006-07-08T21:55:00.000-06:00

Since getting to Minneapolis takes approximately five minutes from my house, does it count as a travel destination?! This is the 3rd Avenue Bridge over the Mississippi River at dusk.

Duluth Minnesota July 2006

2006-07-02T17:27:00.000-06:00

Canal Park in Duluth Minnesota is a favorite spot for tourists to visit, coming from surrounding states and far-flung places. Canal Park has many motels and hotels, restaurants. and a plethora of shops. But, the most interesting for our family at least has been the ocean traffic that brings freighters to Duluth Harbor from many countries. While enjoying the weather, the flowers (above) and the food, the draw aways seems to be the water and the boats.

Duluth boats

2006-07-01T17:39:00.000-06:00

Freighters and tugs and pleasure craft all visit Duluth Harbor. The romance of ships, whether they are utilitarian or used for sheer joy of nature, mesmerizes everyone, young and old. The logs on this boat were so numerous in number that most onlookers were stunned as it made its way from Lake Superior to a berth in the harbor. The logs came from Thunder Bay, Ontario and were to be unloaded and sent to various parts of the United States, and perhaps elsewhere.

Spring Break with a Grandmother-2005 Puerto Villarta

2006-05-29T21:05:00.000-06:00

Benefactor

The Benefactee

One of the spray paint artists and some of the paintings. Dom bought his first piece of art here.

Roberto, Dom's favorite vendor

Friends and Streets in Puerto Vallarta 2005

2006-05-29T12:04:00.000-06:00

Because I have been busy visiting as many different corners of the world as possible, I had lost sight of how much I loved México after my first visit there while I was still young and single. As a typical tourist I went to México City (it was lovely then!), Acapulco, Taxco, and Cuernavaca. I returned with a resolve to go back and learn more. But, other life-decisions altered that intention. In February of 2005, Jaime and I were invited to spend some time in Puerto Vallarta with friends (see below), and I quickly picked up where I had left off. Since then I have been in PV twice, Cancun once, Guadalajara once, and Mazatlán twice--not bad! I fully intend to continue...unless something else catches my eye!! Since I haven't been to the colonial mountain cities, I suppose that could be my next stop. Then again, I've been intrigued with Sicily lately........

Jaime making a point during lunch.

Jaime relaxing.

Mmm! Cuban Cigars!!

School Scenes Chang Mai Thailand

2006-05-29T07:31:00.000-06:00

Photos by Kate Mura ©
Training for traditional formal dance.

Thailand Elephant Camp 2001

2006-05-29T06:27:00.000-06:00

After touring too many temples to count, in and around Chang Mai, we teachers from the US were taken to the elephant camp for R and R. Since elephants are my favorite animals for many reasons, I was understandably concerned about using these magnificent beasts for tourism purposes. I was assured that they are well treated. I often wonder if that's the case, and certainly hope so. Since I had no choice because I was in a group and also because I was curious, I went along and am not sorry I did, for no other reason that they are truly remarkable beasts.
Photos by Kate Mura ©

Two curious little girls watching us.

Picasso, the Artist

On the trail

District Six Capetown South Africa

2006-05-28T21:24:00.000-06:00

The museum in District Six serves as a reminder of the cruelty of apartheid and as a memorial to a neighborhood that had been a place where generations of coloured and Indian Cape town residents lived peacefully for generations.

Photographs by Kate Mura ©

The map showed some of the streets in the neighborhood that was destroyed.

This is part of District 6 that was never used after the mostly colored and Indian people were removed from their homes to make way for whites.

South Africa Tourism and "Village" hotels

2006-05-28T20:56:00.000-06:00

Chanticleer, Our morning alarm clock
Photos by Kate Mura

Entrance to our hut/hotel room

Hut
Entrance

South Africa Crestway School and Students

2006-05-28T20:25:00.000-06:00

Xhosa Teacher

South Africa-Terrain and Cape Point

2006-05-28T19:43:00.000-06:00

As you can see, South Africa is incredibly beautiful! Photography by Kate Mura©

PARIS AND THE SIENE

2006-05-28T18:46:00.000-06:00

In 2001 when grandson Dominique was 7-years-old some friends thought we were were unwise to take him to Paris because "what will he get out of it?" Other wiser friends commented that he would be 'like a sponge, absorbing everything." Five years later at age 12, Dom has a tremendous appreciation for traveling. He's a good traveler and is aware of differences and has learned from them. What greater gift could we have given him?
Photos by Kate Mura

PARIS: GRANDSON'S FIRST TRIP ABROAD 2001

2006-05-28T16:53:00.000-06:00

All photos by Kate Mura ©

Dom and new friend at the Pompidou Plaza

Sunday Bird Market

Paris is even better through the eyes of a child, a very young child!

Thailand-Chang Mai Hill Tribe 2001

2006-05-28T10:33:00.000-06:00

All Photos by Kate Mura ©

Hill Tribe people who greeted us (a group of teachers) warmly. The women were savvy vendors!

Hawaii-2002-Miscelleaneous Photos

2006-05-28T09:08:00.000-06:00

Photos by Kate Mura ©
Lindbergh's gravesite in Hana

Helicopter ready to take off after Dom, Grandfather and other brave souls board to go on an aerial tour of the island.

Grandson Dom in Jacuzzi and Grandfather cooking--looks like pizza to me!

Hawaii's Natural Beauty-Maui 2002

2006-05-28T08:42:00.000-06:00

Kate Mura photographs ©

Despite getting carsick on Hana Highway, Dom enjoyed the scenery as much as we did.

Hawaii Windsurfers 2002

2006-05-28T08:28:00.000-06:00

Photographed by Kate Mura ©

Wind surfers captivated me totally. While Jim and Dom were ready to move on, I wanted to stay and watch and .....dream!

Peaceful Bali

2006-05-28T07:37:00.000-06:00

Photos by Kate Mura ©

Bali is Beautiful Beyond Compare!

BALI-2001-Hindu Funeral

2006-05-28T07:00:00.000-06:00

This is the end of a long life, beginning at birth and ending on a funeral pyre for this devout Hindu. A man whom I was told lived a good life for many years. This religious rite is very different from a cremation I had observed in India on the Ghanges River. Different, yet both are profound observances of a strong religious faith.

All photos by Kate Mura ©
Family Mourners

Bull ready for corpse and cremation

This is a procession of Hindu mourners (and curious tourists) following the corpse of a recently deceased man on the way to the cremation site.

Chichen Izta-2005

2006-05-27T22:11:00.000-06:00

Photos by Kate Mura©
Pillars at Chichen Izta

Two friends----Resting before walking the Mayan Ruins

Tortillas for the tourists

Morning Exercise at the Great Pyramid

"Out of Sight, Out of Mind"

2006-05-27T21:49:00.000-06:00

Kate Mura photograph ©
Chichen izta--That time-worn adage "out of sight, out of mind," does not apply to vacations. The memories linger on. While going through old floppy discs from my very old digital Mavica camera (that I still love!) I found discs from Bali, Singapore, South Africa, Thailand, and Mexico. Yes, you will shortly be reading a little about each. Lucky you! I need to pick and choose, though, because many of the discs are damaged, and I'm unable to recover some of the photos. Technology isn't always one's friend.

I made an interesting "friend" as I was leaving the Mayan site at Chichen Izta. Prior to that trip, I met one of his cousins in Puerta Vallarta. No matter where they are seen, they are handsome little buggers!

The Guthrie Theatre-Minneapolis

2006-04-27T23:20:00.000-06:00

What does this have to do with travel, you might ask? The performances over the years at the Guthrie Theatre have allowed me to travel to different places and countries over several different centuries in the company of an unforgettable cast of characters.

Tonight we saw Hamlet, the last scheduled play ending its run at the original theatre. At the end of the month the Guthrie will be in their new state-of-the-art buildings on the banks of the Mississippi River in downtown Minneapolis. In 1963 under the direction of the visionary Sir Tyrone Guthrie, the theatre opened with Shakespeare's Hamlet-a $3.oo ticket. We saw the first performance done in tuxedo and have come full circle with tonight's play, set in the 1940's-a $42.00 ticket. Both stellar performances! In all, over the years I have seen four different versions of Hamlet on Guthrie's thrust stage. Each completely different from one another.

I can't help but feel nostalgic about the place because I have many memories. Taking students to a variety of plays there frequently had mixed results, based upon behavior, but always worthwhile because each play reinforced my teaching. During the first season I was sprayed with Hume Cronyn's spittle as I sat in a front row watching him in The Miser. In 1967 while hugely pregnant and wearing a red dress, I and my husband arrived late for a matinee performance of The House of Atreus. While being seated in the darkened balcony with steep steps, I experienced vertigo but hands shot out from both sides of the aisle, protecting me from a fall-- and without interrupting the play. I wept with Emily in Our Town when she declared, "Oh Earth, you are too beautiful to realize!" Tears also flowed in The Glass Menagerie, but I shed tears of mirth while watching Lysistrata and Tartuffe. I've taken countless small children there, including my own and my grandchildren, to see their very first performance of the seasonal The Christmas Carol. The child who was terrified is still willing to return, though! Death of a Salesman leaves me shattered, yet when I reluctantly agreed to go see it with my husband in both 1992 and 2005 I wasn't sorry. Recently The People's Temple made me change my mind about the followers of Jones who drank poisoned Kool-Aid and died en masse.

The Guthrie Theatre also had people of music and letters perform on stage in different kinds of performances. I enjoyed The Blind Boys of Alabama and Lyle Lovett. I saw, heard, and swooned while watching Seamus Heaney, and Nadine Gordimer left me speechless with admiration.

Although I am anxious to see the new Guthrie and to enjoy more theatre there, I shall miss the old Guthrie. It has served me and the community very, very well!

Our Pets-St Paul

2006-04-25T16:31:00.000-06:00

Jim and I have had pets almost since the day we were married. The following animals currently reside with us. During the tough years, I probably would have gotten rid of my kids instead of my animals, who could not talk back and loved us, honored us, and obeyed without question (just kidding!).

Brandy, the black cat, belongs to our grandkids, Dominique and Olivia.
Photo by Kati Neher©

John Finch, named after a former colleague (who was thrilled at the honor) is the longest living finch on record-20 years old and still going strong!
Maggi, our shelter dog, although quite sick with kidney problems, is the sweetest dog in the universe. And, recently diagnosed with hip Dysplasia (4/28/06); she's too young--only four. Poor Maggi!

The bird with the top notch is Chica, as serene as Sadie is difficult!

Sadie is the charming parrot who bites everyone except Kate

Photos of birds and dog by Kate Mura©

Birthdays-St Paul

2006-04-23T12:35:00.000-06:00

Is it possible that my daughter Kati has all these candles on her birthday cake?

Poetry Month-Planet Earth

2006-04-20T08:38:00.000-06:00

Yes, re-entry into so-called "normal life" is not always easy, but poetry lightens the load. Since April is Poetry Month, I decided to add a few poems here and there that I love. This is the first one.

The Waking

I wake to sleep and take my waking slow.
I feel my fate in what I cannot fear.
I learn by going where I have to go.

We think by feeling. What is there to know?
I hear my being dance from ear to ear.
I wake to sleep and take my waking slow.

Of those so close beside me, which are you?
God bless the Ground! I shall walk softly there,
And learn by going where I have to go.

Light takes the Tree; but who can tell us how?
The lowly worm climbs up a winding stair;
I wake to sleep and take my waking slow.

Great Nature has another thing to do
To you and me; so take the lively air,
And, lovely, learn by going where to go.

This shaking keeps me steady. I should know.
What falls away is always. And is near.
I wake to sleep, and take my waking slow.
I learn by going where I have to go.

--Theodore Roethke

Home Again-México to USA

2006-04-18T04:12:00.000-06:00

Picture: Dominique leaving reluctantly for home--¡Hasta Luego!

I have mixed emotions about returning, and I assume that is normal. The weather here is comfortable and warm for Minnesota. But, I miss the friendly people, the sound of the pounding surf, walking on the beach, and fantasizing about living in México. And the sun, of course!

Now I have to figure out what I want to do with the rest of my life.

México Pictures for family and friends.

2006-04-15T10:20:00.000-06:00

Mary's Sandwich Shoppe was a favorite place for our grandkids who enjoyed the hot dogs and burgers! Rueben, the friendly waiter, took good care of us. Mary's is owned by a former Derham Hall graduate, St. Paul, MN, who lives in Mazatlán with her husband and children!

The Equestrians: Jaime and 'Livie
Dom makes a salad as Kati watches and while grandfather and Olivia rest.

I'm still trying to figure out how to identify photos, still experimenting with the content and not quite sure how to do what I want. Family pictures are interspersed with condo photos. Below one photo is of the master bedroom and another of the view from our fifth floor balcony. Mazatlán is experiencing a building boom with escalating prices. Costa Bonita is quite luxurious but the price is right--currently! I doubt that we will stay there again because it is quite far from town, an area I prefer. Beach and ambiance is great and I'd recommend it if you prefer to beach and surf, but it's hard to get involved with Mexican culture.

Kate and Jaime at leisure, and the way we used the internet during the bright sunshiny day on a balcony, the only location for a wireless signal.

The Best Show in Town-Costa Bonita, Mazatlán

2006-04-13T20:31:00.000-06:00

(Disclaimer: The photo obviously is not mine but one which is available free from an internet site.)

In the morning a pod of dolphins swim past our condo going south. In the evening, they return in a northernly direction. Knowing that we are leaving tomorrow night, nature provided us tonight at about 6:30 with a 30 minute show of dolphins cavorting in the ocean. Afterwards we walked the shore to see another fantastic sunset. Good-bye Mazatlán.

Eclipse Zona Dorada Mazatlán México

2006-04-09T19:53:00.000-06:00

This is a lovely piece of metal artwork that daughter Kati bought and brought back to her Minnesota home last Friday. It is a fairly standard Mexican image, but the piece is really quite beautiful and unique, executed by a very talented Mexican artist. It has several different kinds of metals and measures about 24"x 24". I wish that I had seen it first! It's a lovely addition to her home and a great memory! Click on the picture for a larger, more detailed image.
Photo by Kati Neher ©

Four Different Vacations Mazatlán México

2006-04-09T07:04:00.000-06:00

During this month we have had four separate and distinct vacations: first, enjoying getting to know the area by ourselves; second, sharing our beautiful condo with two friends from California/Colorado; third; playing with daughter and two grandkids; and, now this final week, enjoying a different "way of life" with grand-daughter Olivia, age 4. Each week has been totally unique and different from the others. What will we do next year to top this one? I think that I would like to explore more areas of México, too.

I am ready to move for a period of three to six months, during our cold, snowy, icy, and unpleasant winter Minnesota weather, but Jaime is definitely not ready to retire to a life of ease. And, I doubt that he ever will be. It's a bit of a dilemma, but one that has several solutions which I am now pondering. I would not want to miss the wonderful summer months in St. Paul and environs. Both Minnesota and Wisconsin have spring, summer, and fall months that are more than just enjoyable. Despite humidity and mosquitos, the area is leafy green, dreamy river and lake blue, and activity-filled with walks, biking, canoeing, music, movies, theatre, and friends.

Life is good!

The "dump tour" Mazatlán México

2006-04-06T06:56:00.000-06:00

On Tuesday the five of us, Jaime, daughter Kati, grandson Dominique age 12, granddaughter Olivia age 4, and I as well as 20 other people of various ages, including several adolescents and young adults went to the Vineyard (a non-denominational church) early in the morning to make sandwiches to take to the people who work and live on the fringes of the one city dump that services the city of Mazatlán. The whole process of making and packaging the sandwiches and then adding oranges and water is assembly-line perfect. Energetic volunteers oversaw the work, and even Olivia assisted by placing cheese atop the ham, which others placed in large buns that had previously been cut by other worker bees. You get the picture.

Able bodied men and young boys loaded the food on a rickety bus and we all piled in. Before arriving at the dump, we visited several extremely poor colonials (neighborhoods) and toured the extremely basic churches/community centers to see what the Mexicans are being taught to do for themselves. Most fascinating was one center that makes and sells rudimentary water filter systems. Our last stop before the dump was a school for pre-school ninos. Again, very basic and rudimentary according to our standards. This country needs far more, of course.

The dump tour itself should be a mandatory visit for all tourists. It is difficult to describe the living conditions of the people in the shacks surrounding the dump. When the bus pulled into the outer fringes of the dump, men and a few women flocked to the bus. People of all ages interrupted their work to get the food with aqua being especially appreciated, sometimes preferred. Before we arrived the tour director explained that recycycling goes through several stages, beginning with the maids at the resorts going through the garbage to collect aluminum cans for which they can earn the most money, and finally the garbage collectors who take their share before arriving at the dump. The men and women rifling through the mounds of what is left look primarily for cardboard boxes and any kind of material that can be sold. Some carried the boxes on their backs, others loaded them on a few rusty trucks, and others loaded them on donkey-pulled carts. On the way out, we stopped in an area where children ran to meet the bus to get their special bags of food. A blind woman led by a friend is a regular visitor, energetic ninos cavorted spiritedly around the bus, and one woman arrived with what looked like a newborn child, wrapped carefully in a clean yellow bunting. Several others and I walked up a narrow dirt path with food for the ancient abuela, a routine. Her hovel is exactly that--no human being should have to live like that.

Surprisingly there was no proselytizing on the tour nor was their a request for money, just a prayer before we boarded the bus and an explanation of the work done by the members of the church IF we wanted to contribute funds now or in the future. Quite amazing. The trips to the dump are reduced to only two a week after the tourist season ends since much of the volunteer work for that particular project is assisted by people like those on this trip. I'm sure that I am over-simplifying. The people who stay here year round and who continue the charitable services are the ones to be admired and applauded.

The only disquieting and ironic note was that before taking our leave of one another, we all shared information on where to go for the best restaurants in Mazatlán.

I wonder how much effect this has on impressionable minds, like Dominique's and Olivia's, who was a real trouper on the bus and helped in all of the various stages. Her shyness surfaced only when greeted by children her own age. I'm convinced that daughter Kati's profession as a social worker is a result of her high school trip to Costa Rica with Amigos de las Americas when as a 16-yr-old she lived with a family for six weeks, doing volunteer dental hygiene with ninos in villages close to San Jose.

Enough for today.

Grandkids Arrive! Mazatlán Mexico

2006-04-02T06:40:00.000-06:00

Seeing the ocean and sand for the first time through the fresh eyes of a four-year-old is far more interesting than any other age group's impressions. My daughter and two children arrived after dark on Friday so the morning opened up a new world. Because Olivia and I are the early risers, we walked the beach together. Until instructed otherwise, to find seashells she used sand toys to dig deep holes (buried treasure) rather than search the surface. A bit hesitant of the waves she stayed a safe distance from them initially, but is now a little braver. Because she knows nothing of what we take for granted, it is a refreshing experience being with her. I wish that I could get into her mind to discover what she is "thinking" as she sees surf and sand for the first time, hops on a bus - again for the first time, and listens to incomprehensible Spanish sounds.

12-year old Dominique is more blasé, but enjoys both surf and pool. Because our location is more remote, he declared that he preferred being in a downtown area, where he and I stayed in Puerto Villarta last spring. The street artists, who are absent in this city, captivated him last April during his spring break. The evenings there for him were far more interesting than the nights here. Despite missing the action, he likes our accommodations much better in Mazatlán.

Small children also force changes in one's plans. Yesterday we cut short our visit to El Centro after breakfast and grocery shopping. Although energetic, Olivia needed a nap, and I was happy to accommodate her.

This day again dawns bright and clear. As soon as they awaken the halls will echo (somewhat unfortunately!) with their voices and our day will hold new surprises.

Tahiti?? Stone Island Mazatlán México

2006-03-30T08:17:00.000-06:00

Yesterday we visited Stone Island, actually a peninsula on the southern tip of the historic district. After another maddening search for details for the correct bus to get to the ferry, we found the spot where we needed to take a small boat across a ten-minute stretch of water. The narrow strip of sand and palm trees is a favorite spot of locals, expats, and tourists alike. For anyone familiar with Stone Island, perhaps my impression may be a bit far-fetched, but the thought of Paul Gauguin, Post-Impressionist artist, came immediately to my mind. Restaurants on the sand stretched for blocks, all constructed of thatched roof buildings, open to the air. But along the entire strip of land, tall palm trees offered a backdrop. And, that's what made me think of Gauguin. Despite the tourist aspect, it's a fun place to go for the day.

Cruise ships dock on Wednesdays and Thursdays so the population of Mazatlán temporarily increases. Several people with whom we spoke from the ships were there for the day, which seemed to me to be a better use of their time than cruising the gift shops. I'm not a fan of cruise ships because of their environmental damage, but when one sees the reality of local economy, it's somewhat understandable. Life offers complex decisions.

Today we're going to see if we an obtain tickets to a musical at the local teatro, which is a restored European building in Plaza Machado, my favorite place here. There is a music school nearby, and thegifted and talented students of music and dance put on many performances in this small gem. Picture it: a proscenium stage, horseshoe shaped configuration, seats covered in red velvet and three tiers of more seats above the main floor. It's a delightful visual feast.

Transportation Mazatlán and Concordia México

2006-03-29T06:58:00.000-06:00

The transportation system in México is excellent, and taking buses is my favorite way to move around the city and surrounding countryside. Not many are in pristine condition, and some are in pretty tough shape, but it's more interesting by far than taking a cab or pulmonia, an open air, golf cart-type conveyance. Drivers here do not seem to have the same Kamikaze Pilot mentality when driving so it's a bit tamer riding in Mazatlán buses than in some other cities. Many have a cross or crucifix dangling in the front window, and many have named their bus. Information that I get from other people here may or may not be correct, and it's impossible for me to check for accuracy but it makes for interesting stories. I've been told that many individual buses are purchased as a business by the drivers which explains the individualized decor and names.

Yesterday we went to the central bus station where both elite and regular buses board passengers going to various Méxican cities and villages. Finding our way there was a contest in itself, but we are getting very good at figuring out the bus system, with some hilarious mishaps along the way. After finding the right terminal building for the small town of Concordia, about 40 kilometers from here, we boarded and watched the driver and other passengers. One pays the fare on the bus with this particular system, a less-fancy bus than the other larger Greyhound types. The drivers stopped at almost every corner, or so it seemed, boarding new passengers. Occasionally vendors got on, selling candy which they placed in laps and then returned for payment. We and many others just gave them back. Other vendors selling roast corn, sweet rolls and lottery tickets boarded, sold their wares, and then debarked several blocks beyond where they first got on. It took us 45 minutes just to get out of the city. Absolutely no other gringos on the bus. Where we noticed?? Women with children without fail were helped by other passengers, total strangers, who held the children or helped the family get settled.

The colonial town of Concordia was beastly hot and many residents walked around carrying black umbrellas to ward off the sun's rays. The church in the Plaza, reportedly to be one of the oldest in the country. unfortunately was locked. We didn't stay long and returned along the same route. The landscape is dry and dusty during this season, but there were patches of land that looked like orchards, green havens among the yellow, dry soil. Cacti sprouted from the hills along the highway. The trip takes about an hour and a half each way and costs the princely sum of $2.00.

After several more mishaps on the city buses, created by language difficulties, we arrived in the Zona Dorada and had a great meal of a rack of ribs. We have been eating almost all Méxican food, but this was impossible to resist and the food was excellent.

I wonder what today will bring?!

The "real México" Juarez Sunday Market

2006-03-27T07:19:00.000-06:00

Permission given to use these photos which were taken by Eliot Deutsch, www.lilaw.info

Catherine Watson, former editor of the Travel Section of the Minneapolis Star Tribune, has written in her new book that travelers should not overplan but "go with the flow," so to speak. Catherine is not only a good writer but also a wise person.

Yesterday morning Jaime and I hopped on a bus, rode it to the end of the line, and arrived at "the real México." Only on Sundays this particular neighborhood holds an outdoor mercado. The sights and sounds were fantastic. Other than a few streets left open and clear for buses and traffic, all the others were closed and filled from one side to the other with vendors. The regular shops were open, doing a brisk business as well. With nary a tourist in sight we wended our way from one stall or open area to another. The red tomatoes look and taste like real tomatoes instead of the hot house brand available in the USA. A pick-up truck parked at the curb was piled high with green peppers, another with round, ripe melons. Vegetables and fruit --block after block. Old and new clothes, flea-market style, lay on tarps along the sidewalk, and hung on make-shift rods. Old and new merchandise of many different categories were available for purchase. Huge vats and barrels of shrimp and squid rested side by side, along with rows and rows of fish of all varieties. Our prize was a kilo of shrimp, heads included, which were happily devoured for our evening meal.

Returning to our condo, we rode a bus that led from one spectrum of society to the other. The passengers reflected the neighborhoods--all this during a distance that took about 40 minutes. Can't wait to go back next Sunday!

Earlier in the week we met another Norte Americano on the bus who started the conversation by remarking on my Green Bay Packer hat. Turns out that he is one of our "neighbors" and is vacationing in a nearby location that is a mixture of tourists, expats, and Mexicans. What a find he has been. A former Peace Corp worker, he speaks very good Spanish, and has given us a tour of his rented house as well as many other tips. Haven't met a Peace Corp worker that I haven't liked, especially those who were in it during the 60s and 70s.

Time to walk the beach again!

Gala Musical at the Orfanatorio de Mazatlán

2006-03-24T02:01:00.000-06:00

The Orfanatorio de Mazatlán
Tonight was magical! We went to a concert to benefit the Orfanatorio de Mazatlán that was held in the courtyard of the orphanage. Apparently it is an annual event, which is extremely well-attended by Mexicans and gringos alike. The program was top drawer with outstanding talent: a youth orchestra, well-known musicians, and a programa that was varied and extensive, including excerpts from Carmen, Romeo and Juliet, the Barber of Seville, Traviata, Boheme, Tales of Hoffman and others with outstanding vocalists. We sat front row center, and I felt that I have never before been that close to so much talent!

During the very brief intermissions, dozens of trays of tapas were passed among us, and beverages and wine were available, supplied by sponsoring businesses. One major bank contributed $150,000 pesos (equivalent to $15,000 USD) to the orphanage which I suspect is not a common gesture. Much needed and appreciated. Some of the children were brought out along with the artists at the finale with bouquets for the musicians and vocalists.

It is often surprising to open a door to a building in a nondescript neighborhood to discover an amazing courtyard and interior. The orphanage's courtyard is well-maintained, altho somewhat austere. It appears that the building must have been owned by an affluent family in times past. When going to the baño I glanced through a doorway and paused when I saw a long rectangular room with approximately 20 cots on both sides lined against the outside walls with a few cribs in the center of the room. All of the cots had the same print bedspread on each one, but there were different stuffed toys on some beds. Made my heart quicken when I saw it.

Seated next to me during the performance was an elegant older woman who gave me some history. There are several orphanages here: two funded by the Catholics and another by the Salvation Army, but this orphanage struggles for money. Apparently many expats get involved in all kinds of service organizations, but not enough at this particular orphanage. Some of the children are true orphans, many abandoned, but some are also placed there by parents who are unable to care for them. The sorry state of human history marches on.

I am grateful to have had the chance to hear this outstanding concert, and to learn more of this region's history.

The Beach Cerritos Beach Mazatlán México

2006-03-23T08:49:00.000-06:00

A group of about 100 middle and high school students with their adult keepers are vacationing for a week somewhere just north of us. Yesterday I "spoke" with two of the girls while the entire group was walking the beach early in the morning. It was great to see them and their youthful energy as a change from the older-age people who are also on the beach. Occasionally I'll see a young family, but that's normally in the afternoon. Yesterday morning, however, I saw two young fathers with infants in baby-pacs while the mothers I assume were still sleeping. Or tending to other children.

Seashells are abundant here, but there's not much variety. It's later now than when I usually stroll the shore, but I need to see what the sea has offered from last night, so off I go. Perhaps I'll see the two fishermen that were there yesterday. They were not a gift from the sea, but interesting to watch as they repeatedly cast their lines, over and over again.

Stereotypes México

2006-03-21T21:06:00.000-06:00

Some stereotypes are based on faulty information or downright bigotry. And, then there are some stereotypes that are uncomfortably close to reality. Is there any cultural group that plays music louder than Mexicans? Since we have not been here during fiestas we haven't been treated to the sights and sounds reported to us by other gringos, but we have had a small sample here and there. Doesn't bother me, but it seems to be a trait that could fall into the sterotype category. Then there is the Ugly American, loud and obnoxious or arrogant and supercilious on foreign soil. We were treated to that yesterday on a local bus. Observing local behavior and judging whether or not we can classify it, or whether or not we really should bother with making judgments perhaps is only idle curiosity on my part rather than an intellectual exercise.

Jaime is having a difficult time relaxing and doing nothing. Although time is passing rapidly and we haven't been exactly standing still, he needs to do more than walk on the beach and play the role of tourist. We might actually do some volunteering here if we can find the right group.

While Jaime sleeps, I'm going to don some clothes and walk on the beach since no-one else is out and about yet. Suits me fine!

Some Surprises Mazatlán México

2006-03-20T21:50:00.000-06:00

Monday night

The weather is a bit cooler than I had thought it would be and I did not bring the right clothes, which has always been tricky for me. I sure could use a nice pair of jeans and a light sweatshirt tonight as it's a bit chilly.

I am drawn to El Centro so we went there again today. I was invited to a luncheon held each Monday by a group of women, but declined and will go later since I did not want to abandon Jaime and our plans for the day. Amazing how quickly the hours flash by. We found the library with English books and checked out a few, including Annie Proulx's Close Range: Wyoming Stories. I had already read "Brokeback Mountain" but not the others. She is a powerful writer!

We found Mary's Restaurant, owned by a young female entrepreneur from St. Paul, Mn who opened a restaurant with typical Norte Americano food: hamburgers, french fries--the works. Not for us, but our grandson hasn't yet developed a taste for Mexican food so Mary's occasionally will offer some comfort food for him while we are here. Mary graduated from Derham Hall in 1986, the last graduating class from the all-girls' school before the merger with Cretin, the all-boys' school. Later while at the Univ. of Mn. she met a young Mexican who was there on a medical fellowship, and the inevitable happened. She has now lived here for 10 years, has two boys, and owns two small restaurants, both located in Zona Dorada. Brilliant move on her part.

Yesterday (Sunday) we went to a non-denominational church called the Vineyard. There are lots of dedicated expats in this city who support the work of the church. Interesting service; I thought it would be more like the Unitarians, but it isn't, and it is decidedly Christian. I was a bit uncomfortable, but I appreciate the outreach and programs provided by the regular churchgoers. I signed up our entire family to participate for one day in a program whereby volunteers make sandwiches and then take them to the dump where the food is distributed to Mexicans. I've seen pictures of this activity, and the children there seem to be enjoying the visitors. I felt that our grandkids might learn something without any comments or lectures from us. What I really would like to do is help teach the children English, which I would do if we would be here for a longer period of time.

My Spanish language study has been non-existent, but I have new resolve. I'll start mañana.

Another Day Mazatlán México

2006-03-19T06:23:00.000-06:00

Good morning~The moon has an aura that I have not seen before. It is encircled by a field of white edged with a light shade of pink, bordering on red. I'll have to surf the web for an explanation.

Yesterday friends from Minnesota gave us a small insiders tour of Zona Dorada and our own neighborhood that gave us a few tips which will enable us to enjoy Mazatlan even more than we now do. The process of getting groceries and hauling them back here is becoming increasingly unpleasant, however.

Today we're going to go to a non-denominational church called the Vineyard. I discovered years ago while travelling that attending a local church reveals a good deal about the culture. The English service is about one hour but the Spanish service is over two hours. Which one to attend is no contest! Next week I'd like to go to El Centro to attend mass at the Cathedral to see how it differs.

We drove around a neighborhood called El Cid, which is 80% Mexican. It's probably one of the most, if not THE most exclusive neighborhood. Wow! The homes are spectacular with interesting architecture, many with blindingly white exteriors. One home had a Hummer and "smart car" parked in the open garage. If I ever win the lottery, I'll return and have an architect named Osuna do my home. Looks like a very talented man.

Early morning musings are now commonplace since I am so relaxed. Is this what life is all about:?

Marching

At dawn I heard among bird calls

the billions of marching feet in the churn

and squeak of gravel, even tiny feet

still wet from the mother's amniotic fluid,

and very old halting feet, the feet

of the very light and very heavy, all marching

but not together, criss-crossing at every angle

with sincere attempts not to touch, not to bum

into each other, walking in the doors of houses

and out the back door forty years later, finally

knowing that time collapses on a single

plateau where they were all their lives,

knowing that time stops when the heart stops

as they walk off the earth into the night air.

"Marching," from Jim Harrison's "Saving Daylight" (2006)

A need for coffee, such as it is, calls. 'Til later.

Plus or Minus? Mazatlán México

2006-03-18T06:25:00.000-06:00

A bright full moon lies over my right shoulder as I'm typing this. The surf seems to be louder this early morning, and the moon illuminates the water to make the surroundings much brighter than the previous mornings--or so it seems.

During the 80s when I did a fair amount of travelling, the International Tribune was my main source of information, and, because I am a news-junkie, finding a copy was critical to my mood. In the 90s the newspaper was enhanced (for me) by CNN--a quick fix. Now I need neither since I travel with a laptop. I still take a small purse-size journal with me to record impressions, but I use it infrequently now. Daily I am irresistibly drawn to the computer to stay in touch with family and friends, read local and national newspapers, and now blog. But, is this a plus or a minus? A question that needs some reflection. Any opinions out there??

Yesterday we bused to El Centro which is far more "Mexican" than where we are staying, which incidentally is very serene and very quiet. When our grandkids arrive, I do believe that they will change the environment!! I LOVE the mercado with all its stalls and wares. I prefer shopping there, but it takes an act of sheer determination to bus, transfer and bus again in order to get there. For pleasure and the ambience , that's fine, but to haul groceries requires more effort.

As I suspected, the stalls for the Art Fair in the Plazuela Machado were just being set up so the activity was not conducive for browsing. Instead we visited a woman we had met last October. She has an interesting history, not all of which I know yet. She has spent years teaching English as a second language all over the world, the most recently in China. She bought a condo which is still under construction right on the malecon, a great location. Prices here in Mazatlan, incidentally, are rising astronomically. Jaime and I decided (he more than I) to rent rather than buy to avoid home ownership responsibilities and woes. Plus then we're not tied down to one city and one location. After greeting Teri, our new friend, we went to Cannucks where expats from North America and Canada meet regularly--an interesting group of people. Everyone has a story to tell. We left early because the buses stop running early in the evening to our place because of the distance. Rather than walk or taxi, we decided that going back to the condo was prudent. No regrets, despite that it was St. Patrick's Day. Another question: are we just growing "older" (and wiser or duller) or just more serene and content with our quiet vacation spot?

I have neglected any Spanish study; taking my books with me and a resolve to spend an hour a day to build vocabulary and grammar has been ignored. But, because I am missing an entire unit in my Spanish class, I'd better mend my ways. Yesterday I managed to explain the meaning of St. Patrick's Day to a curious waiter at Cannucks. Between his fractured English and my equally fractured Spanish, we communicated beautifully. It has stimulated me to learn more, tho! I'm even considering buying Spanish newspapers and listening to Spanish TV programs, yet either might tax my brain too much!

Taking an early morning walk on the beach with Jaime is a far-fetched dream because he prefers to dream in his trundle bed; I guess I'll have to go alone, which I fully intend to do--right now, with the bright moon as my sole companion. One of the tenants has a dog that I've seen frolic on the beach; perhaps I can borrow him as a good companion, especially since I miss Maggi, our dog.

¡Adios amigos!

This n' That Mazatlán México

2006-03-17T06:57:00.000-06:00

Dedicated to Jaime who is still sleeping. The dawn of another day does not have the same effect on him as it does on me!

Aubade
By William Shakespeare1564-1616

HARK! hark! the lark at heaven's gate sings,

And Phoebus 'gins arise,

His steeds to water at those springs

On chaliced flowers that lies;

And winking Mary-buds begin

To ope their golden eyes:

With everything that pretty bin,

My lady sweet, arise!

Arise, arise!

I think that getting up before dawn to watch the sunrise is going to become a regular pleasure while we are here. I just watched an amber globe slowly emerge from behind the mountains with thin wisps of clouds drifting across its face.

For about five minutes after looking away, a small dot (on my retina?) partially blocked my vision, which was a bit scary but it's gone now. It reinforced my thought earlier this morning as I listened to the surf: nature is strong, hypnotically beautiful yet potentially dangerous in its force. If I can get Jaime up earlier tomorrow, I'd like to walk the beach before there are any other footprints on the sand.

Because the light is so bright I can't type on the balcony during the day. But womankind cannot be deterred! Yesterday I placed a huge beach towel over my head and the monitor to send and receive messages. I looked a bit strange, but it worked!

Yesterday was busy and exhausting. The Mexican people are unfailingly friendly and helpful. This has been my impression over the years and remains true whereever I travel. It more than compensates for the tiny irritations we Norte Americanos sometimes feel at cultural differences. We really are an impatient society!

Bus service is excellent, all over Mexico. Without any complications, except expenditure of time (see, we are an impatient lot!) we navigated the city for pesos, breakfast, and shopping. I brought two shopping bags with me for that express purpose but filling the larder required more. Struggling to board a bus with those plus four plastic bags which cut into one's hands, filled with groceries brought smiles to many faces. To complete the picture, all we needed was a chicken crate as well. When we unloaded and stowed the groceries away in the refrigerator and cupboards, it seemed like such a puny amount. I can't help but groan when I consider how many such trips we will continue to make during our stay. We are far enough out of the city so that there are no grocery stores close by.

Today the fourth annual Book and Arts Fair will fill the Plazuela Machado. It's my favorite location in El Centro and I plan to stay in the city most of the day. I'll get to practice my fractured Spanish as I cruise the market and streets. On Friday nights tables are set up in the Plaza and children of all ages engage in art projects. The square is surrounded by restaurants and muscians so we'll stay a long while.

El menú de libros y autores que año recalan a la Plazuela Machado para conversar con los lectures mazatlecos, puede competir casi con cualquier feria del libro en nuestro continente y este año no será la excepción. Impressed?! Actually I cheated and copied it from the newspaper.

Enough for this morning. Ta! Ta!

Dawn! A Perfect Moment! Mazatlán México

2006-03-16T07:06:00.000-06:00

It's better than I expected! Our kitchen is at the east end of the condo, and while I sit on the balcony on the west end, listening and watching the waves, I am able also to watch the sunrise through the large kitchen window. Foliage is primarily palm trees with low-lying mountains behind them, covered in green. A flock of birds barely skimming the surface of the water just crossed my vision. The sky is streaked with rose, pale blue, and mauve. I could live here!

I find it interesting that despite all the travelling I've done, I am still thrilled and excited about new places to see or old places to visit. I can even get excited about a trip to the North Shore, Stillwater, or a drive down the Mississippi on the Wisconsin side. Minneapolis even has its appeal! My father was correct: I do, indeed, have gypsy feet. I guess it's a travel gene.

I got little sleep last nite: late to bed and early to rise. Jaime is still sleeping. Without food in the house, we need to find a bank and pesos before we hit a restaurant and the grocery store. Although I really like El Centro, the remoteness, peace and quiet of this area has its own appeal.

Paradise!!-Mazatlán México

2006-03-16T00:15:00.000-06:00

Paradise is an apt name for this location. After an uneventful flight with several outstanding flight attendants (no kidding) on Sun Country Airlines, we landed at Mazatlán's 20th Century-style airport (takes me back many years), was off the jet, passed through immigration, collected our luggage, and was driving toward town--all in 35 minutes.

Right now I'm sitting on our fifth floor balcony, listening to the waves pounding on the shore in front of the condo. Beyond the sound is a backdrop of total inky blackness. No stars to be seen. Our bedroom is off the balcony and it will be sweet, going to sleep with the sound of the surf below us.

We are in a secluded area about 40 minutes from El Centro. Although I love the downtown area because of its energy and vitality, the beaches and relative quiet here is going to be a plus.

Jaime is slowly unwinding, despite mistakenly thinking that I had brought the coffee. Nope! After the initial shock wore off, he stopped hyperventilating and accepted the fact that he'd have to do without 'til we wind our way to the grocers tomorrow morning. That, too, will be an adventure. First the bank and then food! I actually enjoy riding Mexican buses. Good way to watch the people, rather than just the tourists. Tomorrow I need to start reviewing my Spanish textbook. Speaking it (if I could) is a lot more fun than studying it!

Off to my trundle bed!

A White Send-Off!-St Paul MN USA

2006-03-13T08:20:00.000-06:00

Awoke this morning to a true "winter wonderland"--everything is covered with many inches of snow, streets are clogged, and schools are closed. Weather in Mn has been unseasonably free from blizzards and warmer than it should be so this snowfall makes it seem as though we are really "getting away from it all." By Wednesday when we are scheduled to fly away, it should be plowed or melted, and we'll take-off with smiles on our faces. Perfect timing!

Getting Started!-St Paul, MN USA

2006-03-12T23:47:00.000-06:00

Getting started is not that easy when I should be packing for our vacation in Mexico. Blogs are supposed to be easy; why, then, is it difficult for me to design this one? Perhaps it's because I am about three days behind schedule, and instead of moving along with dispatch, I am blogging. Not really blogging---yet, but trying to start it.

Mi esposo Jaime y yo

2006-03-12T23:22:00.000-06:00